Strawbale House

Building Progress of Our Strawbale House

Latest Post

8 July 2011

Progress on balustrading

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Mark has been working on the balustrade again today, adding the uprights to about half the balustrade so far. It’s looking more and more finished.
On the picture below you can see before on the right and after on the left.

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26 June 2011

Firewall

While Mark kept working on the ceilings, I set to work on the fire wall that will surround my wood stove. Mark is working on the bathroom ceiling so no tiling until he’s finished. Blocks I am using are timbercrete blocks leftover from building. These blocks are made from waste cypress pine sawdust, sand and cement. Great product but the guys selling it leave a lot to be desired (subject for another post). These blocks are fireproof. There will be a stainless bench near the wall and a slate floor underneath. Rosalba
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11 June 2011

Wooden ceiling in our bedroom

Mark has been working on the wooden ceiling in our bedroom. Even with some interruptions got it half done. Mark’s shoulder is a bit sore now from hammering all these nails in up side down.
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13 May 2011

Finishing the wooden floor

We are back working on the house this weekend and have discovered a faster and easier method to lay down the recycled wooden floor board. In particular we have found a great method to push the boards hard against each other to leave as small a gap as possible, We are so excited about this and how it is speeding up the installation of the hardwood floorboards that we have decided to make the short vidoe below.

 

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1 May 2011

Lead Lights

They are finally done. Rosalba has worked very hard on these magnificent lead lights. Today Mark got to install them all. Thanks to Graeme Lee for being a great and patient instructor. Couldn’t have done it without him and his workshop.

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30 April 2011

Halfway mark

We have today worked on the wooden floor in Rosalba’s sewing room again and have reached the halfway mark.
Unfortunately we ran out of daylight.
Photo

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3 April 2011

First floor boards

P55

This weekend we have started putting the floor boards down in the Rosalba’s sewing room. The recycled hard wood floor boards are incredibly hard and no matter how I tried most nails bent had to be pulled out again. So we have decided to investigate nail guns to fix the floors. Any recommendations?

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6 March 2011

Finished look using our home made paint

Photo

 

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6 March 2011

Saving Money on Heating and Cooling

Installing insulation in your home can dramatically reduce the need for heating and cooling and therefore save you quite a lot of money. For instance the room in the picture has been so well insulated that no heating or cooling will be necessary. :-)
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Kind regards
Mark S Burgunder

Avanti Hosting – Web Solutions
p: 1300 66 16 76 – f: 07 3112 1992
e: mark@avantihosting.com.au
w: www.avantihosting.com.au

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5 March 2011

Do It Yourself Paint

We found an easy to follow recipe on the Internet on how to make your own paint. Rosalba tried it today with great success. The paint recipe is really easy to follow. Check it out yourself:

“Buy Hydrated Lime powder (I bought 1.5kg from Bunnings for about $5) and your choice of colour oxide (250 gms costs between about $7 to $16 depending on colour – will last for ages as you only use small amounts) from the SAME section of the store. DON’T go to the paint department, as they won’t be able to help you. Make sure the Lime powder you buy is HYDRATED and not the quick drying Lime. Also, the colour oxide needs to be Lime tolerant (so buy the product used to colour concrete, mortar, etc. to ensure you’ve got the right stuff).

1. CAREFULLY place Hydrated Lime powder into a plastic bucket/container – not metal (you’ll need to wear a face mask, avoid unnecessary risks) and CAREFULLY mix in enough water to make a cream-like consistency.

2. Then mix in a small measure of the colour oxide. I started with a 1/4 teaspoon at first and added more (a little at a time) until I got the colour I wanted. Make sure the oxide is properly mixed in; the best way is by using a paint mixing attachment on an electric drill.

3. Paint away! You’ll need to leave the first coat for 24 – 36 hours before applying the second coat. The first coat will be powdery when dry, but the second coat is fine. If you want to paint under the eaves or walls or fences, add to the Limewash paint ingredients 1% part Pale Boiled Linseed Oil to make it water resistant.

I have saved literally HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS by making my own paint and would recommend this to anyone! Also, the Limewash paint you make is so easy to clean up. If it gets on your clothes it just washes out with cold water. If it spills on carpet, let it dry and simply vacuum it up! Spills also wipe off really easily from any surface. After making my own paint, I’m no longer interested in using conventional paints as this is also a much healthier option – a lot less chemicals!”
(Credit to Lilian, Marmion)

In the pictures below you can see the paint Rosalba mixed up in the bucket and the second pictures is of the first coat being applied. The pale green is the paint colour.

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